Climbing Buena Vista

By Danny Bay

Bring a chalk bag, bring carabiners, bring some rope, or even without any equipment, bring a positive edge to reach the top of nearby rocks and to the top of what may feel like the world.

“I’ve climbed every month to the year this year,” said Buena Vista resident Doug Ranck who, for around 30 years, has been rock climbing local hot spots like Four Mile, Bobs Rock, River Road, The Roost and the crags along 371 that go through the tunnel.

According to Ranck, there are several types of climbing in the area. Track climbing requires inserting instruments into the rock’s surface in order to climb it. Bouldering or highballing consists of climbing and traversing rocks from three to 15 feet without gear. And sport climbing involves bolts already placed in the rock for climbers to use, which Ranck said he now prefers because it demands less gear.

“There’s a few areas that aren’t my favorite but it wouldn’t keep me from going if I wanted,” Ranck said about more difficult climbs. “No matter how hard they are you go there. That’s why you enjoy it,” he said.

To better assess a climb, there are rating systems. The Yosemite Decimal System rates climbs using classes one through five. “In grade five you’re using your hands and feet to climb. In three you’re scrambling through a boulder field and you might use your hands a couple times,” Ranck said, adding that the class five division is rated from 5.5 as the easiest to 5.10 which only a few elite and dedicated climbers attempt.

Regardless of rating systems, accidents still occur. Ranck recalled a fluke incident with an overhanging bowl where his heal hooked, putting him upside down and breaking his wrist. “It was so quick I didn’t have a chance to react. It was either my hand or my head,” he said. But the event didn’t deter him. “I was right back at it. I even put rubber on my cast and went climbing,” he added.

To avoid injury, Nate Porter, owner of Salida Mountain Sports, a provider of climbing equipment, recommended taking lessons with an outfitter and avoiding solo climbs. “Plenty of people do it and prefer it. But it’s an acquired taste for the more seasoned climber,” he said.

For the less seasoned climber, Adventure Unlimited opens their indoor rock climbing center to the community. “It’s a real easy way to learn in a controlled environment. People can get comfortable with the safety of rock climbing,” said Alison Peticolas, Ranch Director of Adventure Unlimited.

The center has an auto-belay and group lessons for several types of climbing. Peticolas works with organizations like Chaffee County Mentors and Full Circle in Leadville to teach children the sport.

“Some kids don’t think they can do it. Once they get going, it gets a little hard and they want to come down instantly,” she said. For those children, Peticolas gives advice that could perhaps help everyone interested in rock climbing. “We encourage them to stop, rest, and reassess. And eventually they reach the top,” she said.


(Originally published in the Buena Vista Summer Adventure Guide)